Belay device use. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP.

Belay device use A loosely gripped In climbing and mountaineering, proper use of belay devices is the cornerstone of the belay chain. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Jul 15, 2010 · When I belay I usually use a grigri but I also have an ATC. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Aug 21, 2021 · What are the types of belay device? Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. Apr 24, 2024 · What is a belay device and how do we use it? We explain the key details of how to identify and use belay devices for indoor and outdoor climbing. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. It’s also about having the right gear and understanding how to use it. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. Mar 21, 2024 · Are there reasons to use one belay device over another? This post explores the different climbing situations and how they relate to belay devices. The climber's confidence in their belayer has a major effect on their performance. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. What on Earth is a Belay Device? If you’re new Amazon. Your life depends on a belay device just as your partner’s does too. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. Nov 2, 2021 · A belay device is like a little pulley made of aluminium or alloy that allows your partner to add quick, sudden tension to the rope by locking off the rope so that if you fall, you won’t go far. Effective March 1, 2023, all Edgeworks locations will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. The belay device takes most of the load so your partner doesn’t have to. Types of belay devices: Your belay Jul 29, 2019 · “What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend @sammyspindel on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper… Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. This task requires as much attention as it does training. In the modern day, most climbers use a variety of gear to belay, notably May 30, 2023 · All top rope and lead climbing belayers must use an approved ABD (Assisted Braking Device) type belay device when belaying another climber. Take a belay class from a climbing instructor anywhere in the world. Jul 24, 2025 · Concise belay devices reviews tailored to your needs. 5 days ago · Discover the best belay devices for climbing, including assisted braking options like the Grigri, ATC, Jul 2, and more. It is important to remember that a good climber should also be a good belayer. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul takes a standard autoblocking tube-style belay device and adds a slider that provides an assisted brake function. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. Also, it is much heavier than other autoblocking devices, making it less suitable Aug 21, 2018 · Know How to Use Your Belay Device Check out this very informative instructional video made by Black Diamond to learn how to use the Pilot correctly. Dec 14, 2017 · They will instruct you in how to safely use the auto belay device in their specific setup. My favorite belay device I've ever used was an old sticht plate. The Pilot has a distinct look and function. So it requires a little time to adapt to. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. How to Rappel with a Figure 8 Device: Set the rope through the anchors, and check that anchors and harness are secure, with the carabiner Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. WHAT devices will be permitted? Dec 15, 2020 · The belay device is a tool climbers use to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower their climbing partner. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. The video and step-by-step instructions on this page are created for the TRUBLUE Auto Belay. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. To ascend, the lanyard is simply wound into the device by a retraction spring as you climb. It connects the rappeler to the One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. If you’re still using an 8 ring for rappelling though, you’re missing out on the latest developments in safety and convenience that come from canyoneering-specific devices like the Hoodoo and Critr. These techniques involve the proper use of ropes, harnesses, and belay devices to ensure that a falling climber can be safely caught and lowered to the ground. Belay techniques are an essential component of rock climbing and other vertical activities, serving as a critical safety measure for both climbers and belayers. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Weighing in at 2. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. A belay device is an essential piece of climbing equipment that allows a belayer to control the rope, therefore ensuring the climber's protection against fall. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Belay Devices for Climbing & Mountaineering The belay device has to fit your skills and plans. An example of a tube-style device. In its simplest form, a belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. What is a Rappel Device? Rappel devices (also known as Belay Devices) are mechanical brake devices that control the speed of a rope when rappelling (or abseiling). You’ll find out exactly what belay devices are, including a quick overview of each type of belay device by category. Belaying is a critical part of climbing safety. Aug 7, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. Learn how here. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. This small but mighty tool plays a crucial role in your climbing experience. Please don't construe this review as actual instruction, instead consult the video. Here are our best belay device picks! The Best Belay Device for Beginners How to Choose a Belay or Rappel Device Belay Device Types The most common belay devicesBeB fall into one of two categories: Assisted-braking devices, which arrest climbing falls by “grabbing” the rope like a locking seatbelt, and tube-style devices, which use friction alone to catch a fall. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. For more of our Understanding Belay Devices: Your Lifeline on the Rocks When it comes to climbing, we all know it’s not just about strength and technique. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Depending on the type of climb, you will likely opt to use a different belay device at the gym than you would on a multi-pitch for example. Feb 22, 2020 · These belay devices are great for all kinds of climbing. Mar 17, 2022 · The basics behind the Petzl GriGri, one of climbing’s most popular belay devices. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Is there any benefit to using a figure 8 as opposed to tubular belay devices or a locking assist belay device? Thanks Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. Then embark on a short summary of how they work, where they work Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. In this article you’ll find a no-nonsense summary of the different types of belay device out there. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest Feb 12, 2024 · When looking for a rappel device for your next climb, be sure to consult this list. One such vital piece of equipment is the belay device. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. While old-school devices such as the figure eight and ATC still have their place in the climbing world, the Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. Apr 26, 2022 · Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. It requires the belayer to have a refined sense of how to grip the rope with varying degrees of intensity, all without relinquishing the readiness to brake. How to choose? Dropped Belay Device? Use the Munter Hitch! If you’re a rock climber, chances are you’ve done some multi-pitch rock climbing or are at least thinking/planning to do so in the near future. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Some have more safety features added in while others are simpler to use. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. While all functions work well, the slider is a bit confusing to learn and isn't intuitive, making this device less suitable for handing to a partner without teaching them to use it first. You can read about them in this article I wrote. After all, as a belayer, the rope, and therefore your partner’s life will be in your hands. There are many different devices. A rappel device is one of the most important pieces of rappelling gear. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Jun 19, 2023 · SHUFFLE The shuffle technique is most applicable when using an assisted-braking device (ABD) to belay, but it can be used with manual devices by a very experienced belayer (r ead more about assisted-braking devices). However, it does have drawbacks like A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Learn how each device works, their safety features, and tips for choosing the right belay device for your climbing style. But before learning about each method, let’s Sep 14, 2020 · Best Belay Device For Beginners – 4 Safe + Easy To Use Options September 14, 2020 | Belay Devices, Gear Guides The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Jun 12, 2024 · In the world of climbing, the safety of the climber hangs, quite literally, on the efficiency and reliability of their belay device. Ultimately, these are compact and Mar 1, 2023 · Effective March 1, 2023 As climbing evolves, so do the technologies, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. May 19, 2022 · If you need a belay device to rappel, we've got you! We dig into the different types of devices out there and which ones are best for each rap type! Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. com: belay device50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy Feb 22, 2020 · Most auto belays use the same mechanism for ascension, but the mode of descent varies among different types of automatic belay devices. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. So learn to use a basic tube-style device, and you’ll be able to adapt to any other type or brand within a few minutes of practice. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. Because we believe the best belay device is not the best for everyone. Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. The belay device; an essential item for sport climbing, trad climbing, alpine climbing and mountaineering. The rope, harness, and rappel device protect the rappeler against a fall. On multi-pitch climbs, you carry a lot of gear with you – cams, nuts, draws, slings, carabiners – and of course your trusted belay/rappel device. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Whatever your plans—a climbing gym, sport climbing, or a multi-pitch route—you need a belay device that you know how to use. Mar 16, 2022 · But nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. As such, choosing the right belay device is. As you might know, there are many different types of belay devices and each one of them will have specific instructions that you must learn and practice before using it. They allow you to descend a rope by sliding down it. The belayer holds the life of their partner in their hands. What is a climbing belay device? A climbing belay device is a tool used by climbers to control the rope holding a climber in case the climber falls and/or when the climber needs to be lowered. Both the folding of the rope and the clipping of the carabiner add bends to the rope, which add friction to the overall system. For the most part, to use these devices, one must first fold and push the rope through one of the ‘tubes’ in the device and then clip the rope with a locking carabiner. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. Belaying with the Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. Over the years, I’ve seen people drop gear on climbs Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing.