Thin hands crack climbing 14b Jan 22, 2020 · Organized by width of crack (finger, hand and fist, offwidth, and chimney), Crack Climbing covers everything from basics like the hand jam through advanced techniques including the sidewinder and trout tickler. Thumb movement: this action is the most important aspect of a hand jam. The thinner material is great especially for thin hand size cracks, and the thumb coverage is fantastic for fists and stacks, but they aren't the most durable. This is in contrast to face climbing, wherein those who are mountaineering climb by using outcroppings or larger May 7, 2021 · The Crack Gloves that are built for crack climbing performance. However, when I'm in the gym, the crack shreds the back of my hands up. Manage flappers, split tips, frayed skin, and more. 7), Elephant Rock. I'm on my 3rd pair and I wear them until failure (usually the finger loops). Vice versa for a right-leaning crack. Another side-by-side comparison of the OR and Ocun gloves. Jul 3, 2023 · 4. In this course, we break down the essential techniques for every size of crack, from thin fingers to wide offwidths. Jun 5, 2023 · Between hard sport climbing, a history of comp climbing, his experience on cracks and big walls, and a career as a dermatologist, Hong knows a thing or two about how to take care of your skin. You will be able to fit your fingers into the crack, but not your whole hand. 8 prow to the right. It can be used as a single unit for crack specific exercises and dialling in your technique or multiple units can be added together to do full boulder problems and circuits. Aug 14, 2021 · The ballerina has hands as thin as paper and fingers the width of matchsticks. Start practicing and take your climbing skills to the next level! Read More » ClimberAdmin Mar 08, 2023 0 Comments Hand Cracks When learning, find a nice hand crack in the gym or at your local crag that you can top rope. All things on how to use tape for climbing: fingers, hands, wrists, A2 pulleys & more! Apr 7, 2025 · In crack climbing, you jam and twist your hands inside rock cracks to get grip, so the back of your hands and knuckles take a beating. The first bolt was gleaming about 30 feet up This climb sports some proper thin hands climbing with some fun face climbing at the end. txt) or read online for free. Thin Hands / Narrow Hands: Width between finger and hand crack, difficult to fully insert the hand (synonymous with Tight Hands in some contexts). Following it enabled me to nail Coyne Crack! Jul 26, 2020 · No climbing session is complete without a gnarly flapper or a shaved off fingerprint. Crack climbing is very different from the typical face climbing found in most gyms and on most sport routes, primarily because there are not any “holds. Crack Climbing by Pete Whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. Climbing Techniques for Thin Cracks - Free download as PDF File (. SAVE YOUR SKIN Whether scaling sandstone, granite or something else, crack climbing is brutal on your skin. Therefore The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climber’s craft. I like to pretend like I'm expanding my hand to have the maximum contact with the crack, like a copperhead if you've ever aid climbed. Starting position 4 (insertion): insert your hand into the crack fingertips/side of the hand first. Some of the thinner stuff around here is edging all the way up though, which is where the moccs are really falling short. Jun 30, 2022 · Canadian crack climbing wizard JP “Peewee” Ouellet shares how to use rubber, tape, and glue to climb off-size splitters without destroying your skin. We put these gloves through the gauntlet of climbing, and have traveled miles of vertical rock during our Other info: I mostly climb thin hands all the way into offwidth/squeeze chimneys as far as cracks go. Thin hands!!!! - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. 9+ thin hands crack. My question is, in due time, will my hands become calloused enough Durable and sensitive hand protection for crack climbing. Using tape, you can make a glove, almost like a boxer, to prevent or minimize bleeding. Definitely a fun route. David recalls initially brushing off his daughter’s bold request. If the crack leans left, lead with your left hand (thumb-down) and follow with the right hand (thumb-up). When you flex your hand and/or pop out your bottom knuckles, the meaty part of your hand around your thumb Dec 1, 2021 · Learn the basics of skin care for rock climbing and bouldering. 10 hand and finger crack that I’d just led at the Super Hits Wall. I use those for outdoor climbing. Aug 20, 2024 · Tired of busted knuckles and aluminum dust covering your hands after a long day of climbing? For over a decade now, our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing gloves. Our 3-step system—Learn, Practice, Refine—is the key to unlocking your crack climbing potential. However, I've had success increasing endurance and strength of the hand muscles (thenar and hypothenar eminences) most important for hand cracks using a crack hangboard. Includes how to information on finger jams, hand jams, off widths, cam sizes, and other details. Feb 11, 2025 · Then, shortly before her fifth birthday, while hanging out in Indian Creek, she asked her dad if she could lead a trad climb: Chocolate Corner, a 5. When you’re crack climbing you instead wedge your hands and feet into the space in the crack to move upwards. Crack Climbing 101: Episode 3 Thin Hands and Fingers Anthony Johnson 752 subscribers Subscribe See full list on rei. Personally, I don't tape up when climbing outside. When you’re face climbing, you ascend the rock by pulling on holds like edges or jugs. This means that if you lead with your left hand, you need to lead with your right foot. The thin gloves - like BD are nice with thin cracks for sure but they don’t last much if you do climb a lot of cracks. Accept The Pain. Thin-hands crack climbing technique: with feet moved to knee level immediately Jonathan Mastin 3 subscribers Subscribed Crack climbing is a specialized form of rock climbing that involves ascending cracks in the rock face using various techniques and movements. As with any jam you should be looking to place the jam passively, so be sure to look for any constrictions in the crack which you can take advantage of. Find out about perfect hand jams, thumb-up or thumb-down techniques, and more. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cutting-edge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of Century Crack (5. I see solid crack climbers hitting the gym crack without gloves all the time. Read our complete climbing skin care guide and top 4 skin balms + more! Oct 15, 2021 · Crack climbing is a rock climbing process by which mountaineers and climbers utilize cracks in a crag or cliffside to make upward progress. I met her at the base of Bloody Fingers, a 5. 5. Starting on the back of your wrist, run a strip of tape up, around the base of your index finger, and back down to your wrist. pdf), Text File (. But then Reagan waltzed over to the route, climbed up a bit and plugged a cam into the crack. Folks. About this video: 4 types of hand/fist jams for crack climbing: ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum Secondly, to help with the current predicament you are in, putting on creams like bag balm or working hands when you aren't doing anything once a day does wonders to your skin but you could also use super glue with climbing tape if you want to climb right away or combine both for maximum efficiency over time. Aug 9, 2025 · Sick of crack gloves? Can't afford them? Check out these tutorials for the best ways to tape your hands, including one reusable option. A guide to the basics of crack climbing, a special type of rock climbing that ascends splitter and dihedral cracks like those found in the deserts of Utah and Colorado and other places. Picking the right climbing gloves can be a challenge, depending on Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of eight short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of our climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to crack climbing. Master the art of jams. Every bouldering session always feels like it is cut short by the loss of skin on my fingertips. Replacing the Maestro within the Scarpa line up, the Generator (both low and mid versions) is built to take you confidently from valley to summit via hand cracks, offwidths, corners, dime edges, and finger splitters. To the point where I have to wait for the scabs to heal up every two weeks before I can have another go at the route. Find Easy Cracks With Plenty of Face Holds. Apr 13, 2022 · On straight-in cracks, try to oppose hands and feet in your movement sequence. Protect your hands, get great grip and climb harder! Climbing thin hands on sand stone is an absolute Vibe … what’s your favorite size crack to Jam . Aug 16, 2021 · A guide for using climbing finger tape. Start practicing and take your climbing skills to the next level! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The lumberjack has hands the girth of a tree trunk and sausage-like fingers. Practice on Indoor Cracks. They do make thin hands harder because of their thickness so having a thinner pair of gloves or some tape in case you do a thin hands crack is advised. Also agree with Will above about sport climbing for staying in shape, especially for finger cracks. You want a crack that your hand will fit into snugly when placed sideways (thumb down, pinky up). The young woman from Ecuador was a capable, bold climber—but woefully light on local beta. This isn't just about watching videos; it's a structured approach that empowers you Aug 16, 2023 · The Scarpa Generator is an exciting new addition to the crack-climbing shoe market. My hand gains volume to contort to the size of the crack! Thin Hand Cracks will start to get a bit more strenuous and require more precise techniques. The thicker ones will last longer but can feel stiff at times on climbs - they are better for wider and off widths tough ( especially if it’s cup hand !! This method is working best for me right now. Nov 21, 2025 · Hand Jammies - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The appeal of crack climbing lies in its diverse range of Aug 21, 2012 · I’m not necessarily new to crack climbing and I’ve done my share of easy crack climbs, but as I’m trying to progress into harder climbs where significant portion of one’s weight needs to be placed on hands, I find this incredibly painful, to the extent that often dealing with pain is the hardest 33 votes, 54 comments. Hand cracks are perfect for getting the movement and rhythm of crack climbing dialed. Sep 12, 2023 · Crack climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber jams their body into cracks in the rock in order to ascend. Dec 17, 2021 · It’s been my experience over the years that Black Diamond is good at making gloves, and their Crack Gloves continue that legacy. Pros: Thin, supple, comfortable, easy to put on and remove, small and light Crack Climbing: Jamming Hands and Fists Learn the basics of hand jamming for crack climbing in this article. Aug 5, 2022 · Natural cracks have complex geometries: narrow and wide spots, irregular surfaces and rounded/broken edges. Difficulty Varies with The Size of Your Hands. As I cam my upper foot in the crack and step up on it, I just let my lower foot hang out and flag to the side, “Thin hands” Honestly not my favorite but not the worst of the smaller sizes … hope all you desert crack climbers are letting the rock dry and finding Back on that crack! Climbing of course! 😄 Lovely thin hands to hands on the start, protected with the @metoliusclimbing Fat Cams. Oct 6, 2017 · I think there's no substitute for actual crack climbing to develop technique and efficiency. Feb 9, 2020 · CRACK GLOVES Crack climbing can be hazardous on your skin. Hope all you crack climbing sand stone lovers are making good decisions and letting the Rock dry. Make sure the top strip covers your knuckles. That includes tape, but the Introducing Global Crack School This course is designed to bridge the gap between frustration and mastery, giving you the skills and knowledge you need to become a proficient and self-sufficient crack climber. Crack Climbing Technique: Jamming Fingers in Rock Climbing and Bouldering https://rockclimb. Learn The Different Types of Crack Climbing Jams. Some climbers opt for gloves made of thin sticky rubber, which not only protects your skin but also increases the friction between your hand and the rock. Fist Crack: Perfectly accommodates a fist (natural size). Unlike pulling on edges or clipping bolts, climbing cracks means learning how to jam your hands, fingers, and feet into the rock to create secure movement. It is a popular and challenging discipline within the climbing community, attracting both seasoned climbers looking for a new thrill and beginners eager to test their skills on unique terrain. If you are going outdoors on wider cracks and have sharp crystals, ocuns are great, the rubber on the back protects your hands very well. This one was built for $25 in . The Ecuadorian and her boyfriend were eyeballing Twist and Crawl, a 5. For one thing, they look like regular old-fashioned tape gloves. Cracks are usually protectable with traditional climbing gear. Understand Crack Climbing Footwork. They fit great, grip well and protect the wearer’s hands and while providing some feeling for the crack. On anything but big cracks or rock with big crystals the new OR Splitter Crack gloves are my go-to. ” Climbing cracks depends on jamming fingers, hands, feet, even elbows securely in a crack without holding onto anything. . Stef's advice is spot on. This article covers crack climbing jams from fingertip width to full body chimneys, as well as recommended clothing. Oct 9, 2025 · Thin Hands, help required!! - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The ballerina climbs and dances up the rock, fingers locking and jamming with ease, whereas the lumberjack can’t fit a single sausage inside the crack and topples like a felled tree. Wondering how the Generator stacks up to La Sportiva’s stalwart TC Pro? Read on. Sep 25, 2013 · Peter Vintoniv on Wheat Thin (5. Parts of this rock How to tape hands for crack climbing Place 3 strips of tape across the back of your hand, overlapping each strip by about ¼". Mar 29, 2021 · The Wide Boyz Crack Trainer with Soft Grip is a simple, lightweight, two piece adjustable crack system, for home use or training areas within climbing gyms. Many cracks have torn off skin from climbers’ hands, fingers, knees, or any part of you that can be useful for stuffing into a crack. Get The Right Climbing Shoes For The Job. This appearance makes it easier to blend in at the crag, where crack-climbing purists are more likely to judge you for wearing any sort of skin protection on your hands. Learn how Molly Mitchell, Cameron Hörst, and Genevive Walker protect their skin while climbing. I only climb once a week for… Jul 24, 2025 · Hands are perhaps a climber’s most important tool, and climbing gloves protect them whether you’re belaying, rappelling, or crack climbing. Rotate your thumb (in parallel with the crack) into the centre of Mar 7, 2023 · Then, with only a five-second shake for one hand, you encounter the eight-move V9 crux, which requires either compression between the two cracks or tips jams that sparsely let up to awkward thin hands, with the final stab rightward, at arm’s width, to a rattly hand jam. The inherent fluctuation of outdoor-crack features often makes them easier to climb, if you know how to read them. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program Nov 22, 2021 · How do you become a better crack climber? Forget Everything You Know about Rock Climbing. For our current review, we researched 35 models and purchased eight of the top gloves to test side-by-side. This is a great training guide for anyone who wants to master thin cracks. com Oct 7, 2024 · After building a crack machine and learning that he couldn't climb it, one climber devised a step-by-step plan for improving his strength for cracks, with tips from expert crack climber Pete Whittaker. Jamming your hands and feet into cracks can be difficult (and painful) at first, but great fun once you learn the techniques. Jul 2, 2025 · Stop using split tips as an excuse to not send your project. Others go for gloves made of climbing tape Mar 8, 2023 · Learn the basics of hand jamming for crack climbing in this article. Nov 14, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 6, 2025 · 6. Belay and rappel gloves help keep your hands clean and in control of the rope, while crack gloves are designed to protect the backs of your hands when you’re jamming them in cracks. The XS fits perfectly for me, and it sounds like we have similar size hands. 7. Crack climbers focus on “jamming” (sliding their hands, feet, or other body parts into cracks to gain leverage through constriction).